Best of Ceviche


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  • | 4:00 a.m. March 12, 2014
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Imagine this situation: You’re just shaking out your towel from a long day at the beach. You have a sun-kissed glow and maybe even your nose and cheeks are a little pink. The sun has made you work up quite an appetite, and, after dusting the white quartz sand from your toes and feet, you decide you’ll go out for a bite. This is when it’s best to have ceviche.

The historically South American dish features raw fish marinated in citrus juice. Though “raw” might scare a few people away, the acid in the juice changes the physical properties of the fish so its texture feels as if it has been cooked with heat. Ceviche is best after a long day in the sun served with a cold beer, pisco sour or chilled sauvignon blanc. Here are some places we recommend:

Ambrish Piare the proprietor of Jalea (formerly known as Sangria), has not only updated its atmosphere — he’s updated the menu.

The biggest change is the addition of Peruvian cuisines. Many of the Peruvian recipes come from Peruvian General Manager Diego Malatesta’s grandma. This is a place to go if you haven’t ever tried Peruvian food, but might not be for the true-blooded Peruvian.

One of the best offerings on the tapas menu is the Leche de Tigre (or Tiger’s Milk). It is a Peruvian legend that the juice cures hangovers and also acts as an aphrodisiac — it’s not uncommon to drink the remaining juice. And this is the juice you’ll want to finish. This version is a creamy blend of white fish, cuzco (Peruvian large-kernelled corn) and onions in a cilantro- and lime-infused juice.

Lima-born Javier Arana put Peruivan food on the map in Sarasota. He’s run Javier’s for 26 years, back in the time when people were scared to eat raw fish. If you’re coming from Siesta Key Beach, his joint is the place to grub.

Arana grew up in a family of restaurateurs and has been in kitchens since he was a child. So, the three ceviches on his menu are authentic and just like home.

The Ceviche Mixto has shrimp, tuna and scallops marinated in slivers of red onion, garlic, lime juice, cilantro and aji pepper. It’s citrus and cilantro flavor doesn’t overpower the dish. It’s a simpler flavor that highlights the tender and large chunks of fish.

If you want authentic, this is the place to go. You might even see Chef Darwin Santa Maria of Darwin’s on 4th or the wife and children of one of the Peruvian chefs at Selva eating here.

Owner Fernando Palomino prides himself in honoring his native country. Every one of his employees, all of the wine, all of his marketing and websites are Peruvian — even the white fish, corn and pepper comes from Peru. Inkanto, which means Inca charm, offers six kinds of ceviche. Be prepared to have a short wait — it’s all made fresh to order. And, you can order it as spicy as you prefer.

The Ceviche de Inkanto is made with corvine (white sea bass imported from Peru) and yellow peppers. While you’re at Inkanto, try a Peruvian wine. It’s the only place you’ll find it in Sarasota.

A few we can’t go without mentioning:
- Darwin’s on 4th, 1525 Fourth St.
- Selva, 1345 Main St.
- The Table Creekside Restaurant and Lounge, 5365 S. Tamiami Trail

 

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