Turkey & Tradition

Fond childhood memories and evolving Thanksgiving traditions overshadow the fact that the modern Turkey Day menu bears only a slight resemblance to the food consumed during the 1621 harvest celebration at Plymouth Colony. Regardless of what food fills your table this upcoming day of thanks, the focus will most likely remain on the hospitality among friends and family, something the following Sarasotans hold dear.

Les and Pam McCurdy, owners of McCurdy’s Comedy Theatre

Les McCurdy’s childhood Thanksgiving spread included all the regulars plus a not-so-traditional option: barbecue pork. He fondly remembers holiday meals in Chattanooga, Tenn., at his grandparents’ Momma Ruth and Poppa’s house.

“They lived in a small, two-bedroom home on one acre in the middle of the city,” says Les. He maintains they didn’t need a big home because they practically lived at the barbecue joint they opened in 1929 and ran for 67 years. Nor was their small home a deterrent to their popularity on Thanksgiving.

“Throughout the course of the evening, there’d be 40 or 50 people who would come through,” says Les.

His “grandmomma” would cook the night before and then warm the food up the next day, giving her ample time to enjoy her company on Thanksgiving. The dessert was kept warm on top of the washer and dryer on the enclosed back porch.

With Les’ extended family still in Tennessee and Pam’s family in Lakeland, the couple and their daughter, Taylor, 20, have historically switched off years traveling to each place for the holiday. This year, with the recent migration of their comedy club to a downtown Sarasota location, they’ll stay in Sarasota, and Pam’s extended Florida family will come to them. Les says he tried to convince everyone they should go out to dinner but, instead, Pam’s sister will join her in the meal preparation.

“Her sister will come over the day before and they’ll have a blast in the kitchen,” he says. “And they’ll cook way more food than needed.”

Pam looks forward to time with her family and the meal preparation. She says the food will be set up buffet-style, and after their plates are piled high with turkey, ham, pulled pork (McCurdy-style), Pam’s white bread dressing, crockpot mac ’n’ cheese and more, they’ll all sit down to eat together.

Potato, potahto … Les prefers the traditional sweet potato casserole complete with the marshmallow topping, while Pam’s family is partial to mashed white potatoes with peas.

Pass the rolls, please … Pam says Les is particular about his dinner rolls and prefers the small take-and-bake, store-bought rolls that come in a can.

Leftovers, shmeftovers … Although Pam says she’d eat the dressing for the next five days, Les is not into leftovers, so the McCurdys generally bring their leftovers to the theater for their staff to eat.

The gizzards in the gravy ... Les’s grandmomma would make a giblet gravy using the boiled giblets, milk, egg and flour.
 

Phil Mancini, co-proprietor of Michael’s On East

Phil Mancini may be a purveyor of food and an expert menu planner, but when it comes to celebrating Thanksgiving, he sticks to a hands-off approach.

“(My wife) Kim does 75% of the cooking,” says Mancini, adding that extended family provides the other 25%.

Phil follows a similar routine every year. Thanksgiving day starts with a trip to the restaurant to ensure any catering jobs are off to a smooth start. Next, he wishes his staff a happy holiday. Then he heads home, where he “doesn’t cook a thing.”

Phil says most notable about his family’s current tradition is the battle of the turkeys. This year, the Mancinis will host about 20 people, and there will be at least three turkeys of varying preparation. He’s predicting there will be a fried turkey, a traditional turkey and then a “surprise” turkey.  

Phil’s earliest memories of the holiday revolve around a makeshift table for 12 at his grandmother’s home in Rhode Island.

“I never understood how we’d get 12 of us at that table,” he says.

He recalls his mother and grandmother cooking into the wee hours and then getting up to do it again in the morning.

“Dessert was big,” says Phil, “and more than anything I’d look forward to the pies.”

The pies were nods to his Italian heritage and included a rice pie and ricotta pie with whipped cream. Although those pies are no longer part of the menu, Mancini has moved on to a new favorite: Kim’s sweet potato casserole.

Got leftovers? … Phil makes a turkey salad with bits of leftover turkey, mayonnaise and walnuts.

Move over football … Phil likes to kick off the holiday season by watching “It’s a Wonderful Life” on Thanksgiving night.

Sandy Buchanan

As a child in Michigan, Sandy Buchanan recalls spending hours outside playing while her mother prepared the Thanksgiving meal. When she’d come in, laid out would be “the most incredible spread,” including turkey, dressing, mashed potatoes, gravy, green beans, carrots, pumpkin and fruit pies. Her family would gather around the table to eat, reflect and be thankful.  

Although her long-distance family is unable to join her in Florida for the holiday, she still has plenty of loved ones to host, including sons Matt and James.

Sandy, who does most of the cooking, starts her preparation a week in advance by calling the boys to ask for any special menu requests. Then, when the day arrives, she tells the boys and their families to come and enjoy the food — and the football.

This year, Sandy and Vern Buchanan expect seven to 10 people at their home on Longboat Key. Their newst guest, 3-month-old grandaughter Lillian, may not be able to partake in “grandmomma’s” cooking yet, but she’ll surely admire Sandy’s seasonal tablescape, which represents the Buchanans’ deep spiritual faith and love of their heritage.

The spread will include comfort foods from Sandy’s childhood but with a touch of healthy conscientiousness.

“I started to incorporate a few carb-friendly dishes such as cauliflower mashed potatoes and Brussels sprouts,” says Sandy. 

What’s in the gravy … Sandy makes her gravy using the turkey juices but adds a bit of sweet potato water or green bean juice for flavor, as well as spices. She thickens it using flour or cornstarch.

Sandy’s favorite Thanksgiving item … the turkey, which she surrounds with all of the side dishes then puts the gravy right on top.

Skip the sweet potato casserole with marshmallows … Sandy sticks to her family’s traditional preparation: boiled and placed right on the plate, then topped with gravy.