- November 24, 2024
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John Adams once wrote in a letter to James Warren that silks, velvets and lace were materials that must be dispensed with, according to Daughters of the American Revolution member Mary Beth McLeod.
“They saw them as extravagances, and, of course, they came from Britain, so what they wanted to do was not buy the tea, not buy the silks, not buy the fabrics,” she said of society during the era of the American Revolution.
So it goes for those in the present day looking to recreate the fashions of the past.
Some who are doing so include members of the Sara De Soto Daughters of the American Revolution chapter and the Saramana Sons of the American Revolution chapters, who can often be seen wearing their costumes at patriotic events throughout the year.
“It's actually quite fun,” said DAR member Jenny Robbins of the costumes. “It's so different than what we wear now, and it's interesting to get an idea of what our ancestors experienced in their day-to-day lives.”
Those who wear the historical costumes said that the attire helps them feel connected to the patriots of the past.
That's the concept on which both DAR and SAR are founded. Both organizations are open only to those who can prove descent from someone who participated in, or aided the cause of, the American Revolutionary War.
There are multiple ways to find 18th-century attire, one of them being as easy as ordering from an online retailer.
Robbins and her husband Jeff Robbins, who belongs to SAR, often purchase their costumes from two retailers of 18th-century historical attire, Townsends and Samson Historical.
“I have different jackets and heavy coats from both companies, and I can mix and match those easily,” Jenny Robbins said.
On the other hand, McLeod sews her own garments.
“The problem with purchasing some of the outfits is they use the wrong textiles, so I won't purchase them if they're the wrong textiles, I’ll make my own,” she said. “I can make it my own too. I like certain colors, and I like certain styles. Sometimes you can't find those exact things that you want.”
McLeod’s interest in costumes began when she became a Civil War reenactor with Company K, to which she still belongs. She carried her hobby with her into DAR.
McLeod had long held an interest in history, having grown up in the town of Deerfield, Massachusetts, the location which saw the Raid on Deerfield in 1704 during Queen Anne's War.
Her work involves meticulous research and the use of the simpler fabrics that are permitted by the time period, such as linens, cottons and wools, materials she said are easy to obtain today.
McLeod showcased for the Observer what was known as a riding jacket, representing a more affluent individual planning to go horseback riding.
She noted the style of the garments as befitting the time period.
“The styles were tight-fitted, the sleeves were tight,” she said, also noting the lace in the front of the garment, as well as the feature of the skirts being open in the front and showcasing the petticoat, something she said was stylish at the time.
When sewing these garments, it’s important to keep the stitching simple, she said.
“It has to be straight stitch,” McLeod said. “A lot of these new sewing machines have fancy stitching on them. You don't do that.”
McLeod's research ensures each detail of the outfit is authentic; her Civil War outfits even incorporate real buttons from the era.
Finding buttons from as long ago as the Revolutionary War proves to be a challenge, but she still incorporates replicas of ornate buttons that she purchases.
“They had simple ones and they had elaborate ones depending on who you were, so I'm representing a woman that has a little bit of money,” McLeod said.
Topping off the whole setup was a tricorn hat which she created by pinning up a regular round-brimmed hat. She decorated the hat with ostrich feathers, which are much harder to find than in the 18th century when they were a sought-after commodity, she said.
She said there is one store in Sarasota that carries them: Hobby Lobby.
While she has given away outfits over the years, she keeps six at home right now.
“It's part of the DAR experience,” McLeod said. “They like to let the public know what we're all about, and it's fun for the public to see you dressed like this, and they appreciate it. You have no idea how many people come up to me and thank me for portraying this person and showing them how they dress and explaining it to them.”
Among SAR and DAR members, you may also find some outfits less typical of the era.
Craig Paige finds that when serving in the color guard for SAR, his outfit, which he describes as looking at bit like the one of Andre the Giant’s character in “The Princess Bride,” draws some questions.
His costume, which he ordered from Townsends, is based on his ancestor having served as a privateer, or a sailor who had the role of attacking enemy ships for the Continental Congress.
It features slops, or very loose-fitting pants designed for maneuverability, and he also carries tools including a replica boarding axe, which privateers would have used to latch onto the side of a ship they were trying to overtake.
The costume and his ancestry have a special significance for Paige, who served for four years in the Navy and 24 in the Coast Guard.
“I spent a lifetime and naval service between the Navy and the Coast Guard. That was very cool for me to find out that I have an ancestor that did that as well, for the Revolutionary War,” he said.
Although some, including McLeod and Paige find that their outfits are extremely comfortable, wearing clothing from centuries ago can be inconvenient for those used to the luxuries of modern attire.
One reason is the lack of specific right and left shoes.
Craig Paige’s wife Colleen Paige, who, as a nonmember, enjoys dressing up in honor of her husband’s ancestors, opts for modern shoes.
“I have a pair of those, and they’re not very comfortable at all. I don’t know how people walked around in them,” she said.
Jeff Robbins also highlighted the series of six buttons used to fasten men’s pants.
“I do think that the greatest invention probably was from Whitcomb Judson, who in 1892, patented the zipper, so we owe a lot to Mr. Judson,” he said.
Another notable feature is the chemise, or undergarment, which women wore beneath their dress, which provided the ruffles on their clothing during the day and which they slept in at night.
“It's like putting clothes on under clothes, and then making sure that it's positioned right in the neck and that the ruffles are sticking out of the sleeve and the jacket,” Colleen Paige said.
Yet with all their qualities, these costumes are still a window to the past for the organizations.
“I do think it is interesting to think about,” Jenny Robbins said. “It was just regular people who took up the cause to fight for their independence, and it's impressive, I think that they chose to do that, because it certainly wasn't easy … I'm very proud of my ancestors. I think it inspires you to be a better Patriot, or American.”
