Columbia Restaurant preserves family tradition while evolving with the times

Founded in 1905 by Spanish Cuban immigrant Casimiro Hernandez Sr., the Columbia Restaurant began as a humble saloon in Tampa before evolving into a culinary icon. Today, it stands as the world’s largest Spanish restaurant and Florida’s oldest, with seven locations, including the cherished St. Armands Circle outpost. Known for its authentic Cuban sandwiches, vibrant paella and signature sangria, Columbia remains a family legacy. Fourth-generation owner Casey Gonzmart Sr. proudly upholds its traditions and recently shared his reflections with us.

Family tradition is important at the Columbia.

Our philosophy is built on honoring our history; it informs our approach to every dish we create. My great-grandfather brought traditional recipes from the old country. While we’ve expanded to new locations and embraced new technologies, the essence of the Columbia remains intact. We’ve been “trendy” for over 120 years because our food resonates with people.

Consistency is the key to our success. 

Our kitchen teams use the same recipes, and we oversee every detail with no shortcuts. We’ve worked with some suppliers for generations, ensuring the same quality ingredients across all locations. For example, the bread we’ve served since the early 1900s still comes from the same Tampa bakery. 

Photo by Lori Sax

Locally sourced ingredients are very important to us. 

We highlight Florida’s agricultural bounty, from gulf shrimp to fresh citrus, while reducing our carbon footprint. It’s not just about the food, it’s about telling the story of Florida and honoring its agricultural roots.

The Columbia is not just a business; it’s a living history. 

My proudest moments in continuing the Columbia’s legacy come when generations of customers return, telling me the Columbia is part of their family’s story. Every time someone shares their connection with us, I feel immense pride.

My top two culinary heroes are …

My grandfather and Ray Castro, a Cuban restaurateur in Chicago. Ray taught me the importance of having priorities in the restaurant business. My grandfather, who ran the Columbia, taught me about quality and professionalism, especially in simple tasks like making an omelet or handling fresh fish. They both influenced my approach to excellence in food and service.

Photo by Lori Sax

My favorite Columbia dishes are those that have been part of our family for generations. 

My mother’s empañadas de picadillo, a simple peasant dish, is a favorite. I also love our 1905 Salad and black bean soup. Our guests travel far to enjoy these dishes. It’s about sharing what we love with others.

The secret of Columbia’s paella is all in the ingredients.

“Paella” refers to a two-handle pan, not what’s in it. It changes across the different regions of Spain, depending on the local ingredients. At Columbia, we combine traditional Spanish elements like pork, chicken and vegetables with all the finest quality Florida ingredients — especially fresh seafood. That’s what makes it special.

How do you recharge after a busy day running a restaurant empire?

Running Columbia Restaurant is the way I recharge! At 76, I still go in daily, connecting with staff and diners. It’s important to motivate young people and create an environment where work is enjoyable. I believe that passion and fun are essential in what we do, and I couldn’t imagine doing anything else.